T. Dorsz Journeys - Winter Races, Alaska

March 2024 - I flew into Fairbanks from Dulles with a layover in Seattle. After arriving in Fairbanks, I checked into Pike's Landing Lodge, which I used as my base for exploring northern Alaska. I have divided my journal entries into two parts: the first covers the winter races I attended in Fairbanks, and the second describes my journey along the Haul Road to Atigun Pass, located above the Arctic Circle.

Northern Alaska has always been on my bucket list, a dream since the 1970s. Back then, I had planned a trip but had to cancel it due to a motorcycle accident. Fifty years later, I finally made it, and it was an incredible experience that I enjoyed immensely, even with the cold. Living in South Dakota for ten years, I’m accustomed to low temperatures. Despite the below-zero weather, the landscape is breathtakingly beautiful, and the people are friendly and resourceful. There are plenty of activities to enjoy, such as watching dog sled races, tracking wildlife, visiting remote towns above the Arctic Circle, and witnessing the northern lights. This was indeed one of the many trips of my lifetime.

Outside the Pike's Landing Lodge is a giant neon sign telling visitors they can enjoy the Northern Lights or go snowmobiling on the frozen Chena River. I did neither here this evening. Instead, I headed to the restaurant for dinner and a cold beer.

The Pike's Landing Lodge is comfortable and a good base for traveling in the north country. It has a hearty breakfast and clean rooms. It's close to the airport and downtown Fairbanks.

I asked the front desk at the lodge for recommendations on interesting activities for tomorrow, and they suggested the Tanana River Challenge. I decided to check it out. I woke up early, enjoyed a hearty breakfast, and headed to the race. It was a crisp and frosty morning, perfect for watching and photographing the event, an endurance race outside Fairbanks. The course involves skiing, running, biking, and skijoring around the frozen Tanana River and the Rosie Creek forest. Participants can choose between 25- and 45-mile distances, but I was content to focus on taking photographs.

The race began at 8:00 AM, but participants started getting ready by 7:00 AM. It was a balmy -9 degrees Fahrenheit at the time.

Racers gear up.

A pair of Alaskan Huskies watch the commotion of dogs and people in the parking area reserved for racers.

The race course loops around the Tanana River and Rosie Creek forest, and participants can choose between 25 and 45 miles. The 45-mile race has an 11-hour time limit and is not intended to be an overnighter. Snowbulance and snowmobiles are on site to provide rescue support if needed.

The starting line. The TRC is a reimagining of the Equinox Ultra-Ski 100k Challenge, which Audun and Sally Endestad of Fairbanks ran for many years.

Canine skijoring.

The 25-mile section of the race featured a canine skijoring segment. In this segment, competitors use cross-country skis and poles while wearing a belt that attaches to a dog harness. As competitors ski, their dogs pull them forward, using the dog's momentum to enhance their speed. Skijoring originated in Norway as a method of winter travel—the Sámi people of the Arctic practice reindeer skijoring, which reflects their strong relationship with these animals.

Fat wheel bikes, skijorers, and runners take off through the snow and ice.

And they're off! The 2024 Tanana River Challenge saw 103 racers cross the finish line. The race took place in fair weather, with a temperature of -9°F in the morning and rising to 10°F by the afternoon. The winds increased around 4 PM, which led to a drop in the wind chill temperature.

While photographing the TRC race, another photographer told me about a dog sled race on the other side of Fairbanks. I headed that way, and as I was pulling into the parking lot, I saw they were having a fur auction. I've never been to one, so I checked it out.

This aspect of Alaskan culture is controversial, especially outside of the state. While there is considerable opposition to fur trapping outside of Alaska and northern Canada, it’s important to understand its crucial role in the lives of many Alaskans. Some Indigenous and European communities engage in subsistence trapping and hunting. They depend on these practices for food, income, and warm clothing. Fairbanks has many visitors who travel from isolated and remote communities and rely on the city for supplies and trade.

Tourists rarely visit the Arctic in winter when temperatures can drop to -50°F, missing the chance to see and understand how many Alaskans live there. For some residents, a grocery store may be an eight-hour drive away; for others, there may be no road access. For many, this is their only source of income. In these circumstances, individuals must depend on their resources to survive the winter.

Northern Alaska has many indigenous communities, such as the Athabaskan (Dena), who are the original inhabitants of Alaska's interior—hence the name Denali. There are also many Inuit tribes and communities whose ancestral homes are in the Arctic. Fairbanks is the closest large city for all of them.

The following photo may be disturbing for some.

Buyers inspect the furs and determine their bids.

A toddler in traditional dress pulls a red sled with his family's pelt. Sleds are common in Alaska during winter. They come in different sizes and are used to pull groceries, water, game, etc.

The Alaska Dog Mushers Association in Fairbanks hosted the 2024 Open North American Championships (ONAC), recognized as the world's longest continuously running sled dog race. The ONAC emphasizes speed, whereas the Iditarod focuses on endurance.

It’s important to understand the differences between the Iditarod and sprint dog racing. Unlike long-distance events such as the Iditarod, sprint races cover shorter distances, typically ranging from 4 to 20 miles. This shorter range allows mushers to work with a smaller pack of dogs, usually between 3 and 14. Sprint races can take place as single-day events or as multi-day competitions, where teams repeat the same course over consecutive days. This format challenges the dogs' consistency and tests the mushers' strategic planning skills.

During the race, mushers have the option to "drop" dogs that are injured or not performing well at checkpoints; however, they cannot replace those dogs with others. Sprint racing dogs are designed to maximize power and efficiency for short bursts of speed.

Dog Mushers Association logo.

The Alaska Trappers Association provided security and helped with parking directions for the race.

Three men in discussion during the Open North American Championships.

Reme Coste's wife walks their racing dogs around the parking lot to limber them up for the upcoming race. Reme Coste finished in first place at the 2024 Open North American Championship race.

Hooking up the dogs for the race: ganglines are arranged for the dogs and are positioned in pairs on either side, with a mainline connecting their harnesses to the sled. A tug line connects the back of each dog's harness to the gangline. The shock-absorbing part of the tug line attaches to the musher's end, while the snap connects to the dog's end. Following that is the neckline, which connects the dog's collar to the gangline. The neckline helps keep the team organized, although some mushers may choose not to use it while moving. When the team stops, the musher removes the tug line but leaves the neckline on.

The dogs are arranged in pairs on either side of the gangline. The lead dogs set the pace and guide the rest of the team along the trail. The swing dogs, positioned behind the lead dogs, help steer the team around corners. The team dogs are responsible for pulling the sled and maintaining the pace. Here's a good explanation with diagrams on the different lines and how they're connected to the dogs: https://www.cascadesleddogclub.com/lines

According to the Pedigree Stage Stop Race rules, a musher may start a race with a maximum of 14 dogs on the truck and no more than 10 dogs on the line. Dogs can drop out during the race but cannot be replaced.

Spectators watch as Ken Chezik from Fife Lake, Michigan, starts his race.

____________________________________________________________

Jake Robinson, from Bemidji, Minnesota, came in fourth place.

His sponsor is the Tanana Chiefs Conference, a non-profit organization that works to meet the needs and challenges of more than 10,000 Alaska Natives in Interior Alaska. It is the traditional tribal consortium of the 42 villages of Interior Alaska.

Jake communicates with his dogs using a dog whistle. He can adjust the volume and speed of the whistle to instruct the dogs to move faster or slower. Additionally, using different whistle sequences, he can convey commands such as "let's go, turn right, turn left, slow down, etc." Mastering the use of the whistle takes some practice.

Michael Tetzner and team from Hamburg, Germany.

Reme Coste, from Langsele, Sweden, finished first in the 2024 Open North American Championships.

Andria "Riley" Bond, of the Number 10 team from Salcha, Alaska, comes over a snow bank as her team races down the trail.

Marvin Kokrine from North Pole, Alaska, and his dog team head toward the forest trail, offering a view of the dog team from the rear.

A little boy on a traditional wooden dog sled is pulled around in the musher parking area.

A newer dog sled with a lot more controls was used in the race.

Crowds begin to break up as the race ends, and of course, the news reporters are busy interviewing spectators.

My watercolor titled "The Race"

My watercolor titled "Little Musher"

You may also like